Iceland is far from an undiscovered destination, with its famous volcanoes, waterfalls, and glaciers attracting visitors from all over the world. However, most tourists stick to the easily accessible Ring Road or parts of it, missing out on one of Iceland’s best-kept secrets — the breathtaking, remote landscapes of the Icelandic Highlands.
The highlands, with their dramatic scenery and far fewer tourists, are a dream for those with an adventurous spirit. All you need is a 4WD vehicle, a tent (or a booked cabin if you’re a planner), and a love for the great outdoors. After spending over a week exploring Iceland, I can confidently say that the highlands were the most impressive part of the trip!
Essential Tips Before You Go
- 4WD is essential: You’ll be driving on unpaved roads and crossing rivers, which requires a 4WD. Regular rental cars are not permitted on these routes, and even if they were, you wouldn’t want to risk getting stranded in the middle of nowhere!
- F-roads ahead: Most roads leading to the highlands are F-roads—unpaved gravel tracks. Be prepared for slow, bumpy rides, but trust me, the journey is worth it.
- Accommodation: Many campsites in the highlands offer both camping and hut accommodation. Make sure to check with each location about their reservation policies, as some require bookings for camping spaces while others don’t. Also, expect to pay extra for shower facilities, as they’re not usually included. Hut spaces sell out months in advance, so if you're not into camping, plan your accommodations at least six months ahead.
Useful links:
Mountain Huts Terms and Conditions
Highland Campsites - Payments: Credit cards are accepted almost everywhere in Iceland —even in paid toilets! We didn’t need to withdraw cash once ( I still don't note how Icelandic banknotes look like!). Just keep in mind that card payments in the huts depend on internet connectivity which can be spotty in the highlands. It’s a good idea to have some cash, just in case.
- Getting there: Access to Kerlingarfjöll and Hveradalir is usually via the Kjalvegur/Route 35. As a bonus this route offer amazing views fields of lupine flower fields if you're visiting in summer!
Day 1: Kerlingarfjöll and Hveradalir
If I could spend only one day in Iceland, this would be it. Hveradalir, a geothermal wonderland nestled in the Kerlingarfjöll mountain range, is otherworldly. The area is easily accessible via the Kjalvegur/Route 35, and there’s parking close to the geothermal site. Be sure not to miss the horseshoe lookout en route — a quick pit stop, but well worth it! (GPS coordinates: 64.671845, -19.282947).
Exploring Hveradalir
Hveradalir is a geothermal hotspot, where steaming vents and bubbling hot springs are set against the backdrop of colorful rhyolite mountains. The area can be explored either by walking short hiking trails that lead to viewpoints or, if time and weather allow, by embarking on a more extended hike that lasts several hours.
- Option 1: Explore the geothermal area
Spend 1–2 hours wandering the trails around the geothermal sites. Make sure your phone is charged—you’ll want to take a ton of pictures! Some areas have a distinct sulfur smell, but the surreal beauty of bubbling mud pools and steaming vents makes it all worthwhile. - Option 2: Hiking
For the more adventurous, hiking in the Kerlingarfjöll range offers stunning views of the vast, desolate wilderness. Even in the high season, we didn’t encounter another soul (aside from in the geothermal area itself). If you're seeking solitude and a connection with nature, this hike is perfect.- Longer hike: Kerlingarfjöll Hike
This route is great if you want to venture deep into the wilderness. Though the itinerary estimates four hours, we took six with all our photo stops! Therefore, budget enough time so you properly soak in all the views. If you're visiting Iceland in July, good news is that the sun almost never sets so you don't risk getting stranded in the dark. The trail is not easy—steep slopes and snow-filled valleys make trekking poles useful. But if you're an experienced hiker, the stunning views are worth every step. - Shorter hike: Kerlingarfjöll Short Hike
If you’re pressed for time or prefer a more relaxed hike, this route covers all the major geothermal viewpoints without venturing too deep into the wild.
- Longer hike: Kerlingarfjöll Hike
Accommodation: We stayed at Langalid Guesthouse due to its proximity to the next day’s destination — Landmannalaugar.
Day 2: Landmannalaugar
Located in Iceland’s southern highlands, Landmannalaugar is a hidden gem that feels like stepping into another world. Famous for its kaleidoscopic rhyolite mountains, bubbling hot springs, and rugged lava fields, it is a perfect destination for nature lovers, hikers, and photographers alike.
While the area is best experienced through hiking, you can also relax in natural hot springs, surrounded by some of the most stunning vistas in Iceland.
Getting There
While Landmannalaugar’s remote location is part of its charm, the drive to and from the area is not easy. You must have a 4WD to navigate the rough F-roads leading to the area, however rest assured that you will be rewarded with a pristine environment. Depending where you're coming from, you can take the following routes:
- F26 and F208 from the north
- F225 from the west
- F208 from the south
If your're coming from the north and don't mind an hour's detour, stop by Haifoss waterfall is highly recommended. It's name, meaning "High Waterfall," is fitting for its impressive height and powerful flow. After a short walk from the parking lot you can witness water plunging down 122 meters into the canyon and a bonus view of the neighboring Granni waterfall.
Hiking in Landmannalaugar
Landmannalaugar is the starting point of the famous Laugavegur Trail, one of the world’s best multi-day hikes, but it also has plenty to offer day hikers.
- Option 1: Bláhnúkur-Brennisteinsalda Loop
This half-day hike takes you past Bláhnúkur (Blue Peak) and the Brennisteinsalda volcano. The pictures speak for themselves and the trail was less technical than the one in Hveradalir, however it still involves crossing streams and some scrambling. Bring extra socks—you might need them! In terms of time management, the same world of caution applies as in Hveradalir - budget more time than the hiking apps say you need, as you will spend a lot of time just admiring the nature and taking the pictures. Bláhnúkur-Brennisteinsalda Loop - Option 2: Landmannalaugar Loop from Kirkjubæjarklaustur
Another alternative for half a day hike is Landmannalaugar loop from Kirkjubæjarklaustur. It's a shorter and easier hike than option 1 and a good alternative if you don't want to exert yourself too much while also enjoying the view to the lava fields (viewpoint not covered by the first hike) Landmannalaugar Loop from Kirkjubæjarklaustur
Accommodation: We stayed at the Landmannalaugar Campsite. There’s no need to reserve a tent spot, but the site can get crowded during high season. Despite the crowds, the atmosphere was cozy, and we enjoyed the BBQ areas, benches, and "mountain malls" (small shops in refurbished American school buses).
Day 3: Exploring Landmannalaugar
With no need to drive in the morning, you can either opt for a longer, full-day hike or start making your way toward your next Icelandic destination.
- Option 1: Grænihryggur Hike
This out-and-back hike covers the bright green rhyolite ridge of Grænihryggur. The same word of caution applies to most (all?) of the hikes in Landmannalaugar area. Most of them require at least some technical expertise and previous familiarity with mountains and changing weather so it is probably not the best place for novice hikers. Other than that, budget enough time, make sure your phone / camera has full battery and off to enjoy the most unique nature Iceland has to offer! - Option 2: Head to the Ring Road
If you're ready to move on, continue on towards the ring road for further adventures. Don’t underestimate the challenges of the drive—multiple river crossings and rough terrain mean you’ll need a reliable 4WD and an experienced driver. During the 3 slow and excruciating hours of driving we saw a bus stuck in the river crossing and a car that lost their licence place somewhere in the water. Therefore, take your time and enjoy the journey.
örugg ferðalög! Safe travels!
Iceland's highlands are a remote and rugged adventure, but they reward you with some of the most stunning natural beauty the country has to offer. Be prepared, drive carefully, and soak in every moment!
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