Turkmenistan 5 Day Itinerary

Day 2: Ashgabat - The White Marble Capital

Journey to Ashgabat

Leaving the Darwaza campsite, we made a quick stop at nearby mud and water craters. Like the famous gas crater, these formations were also caused by underground gas activity. While not as spectacular as the "Gates of Hell," they were still worth a short visit.

As we continued our drive, we noticed numerous houses with bright green roofs. Our guide explained that in Turkmenistan, houses located along main roads must have green roofs, a color symbolizing fertility. This ensures that when the president’s convoy passes by, he sees a "fertile and prosperous" country. Similarly, girls' school uniforms are green for the same symbolic reason.

Before entering Ashgabat, we had to stop for a car wash—a legal requirement! Driving a dirty car in the capital can result in a fine. This rule is just one of many unusual regulations in Turkmenistan. In fact, only white cars are allowed in Ashgabat, making it especially difficult to comply since the city is surrounded by dusty desert landscapes.

Exploring the City

Our first stop was to exchange USD for local currency, which resulted in a huge stack of cash due to the exchange rate. Then, we began sightseeing, mostly by car, as Ashgabat is not a walkable city. It is massive, brutally hot, and its landmarks are spread far apart.

Some notable sights:

• Presidential Palace & Olympic Stadium – Can only be seen from the car due to security restrictions.

• Independence Park – Many Turkmens actually wanted to remain part of the Soviet Union, which adds an ironic twist to this landmark.

• Monument of Neutrality – A symbol of Turkmenistan’s proudly neutral political stance.

• Ertugrul Gazi Mosque – One of the most impressive religious sites in the city.

• Indoor Ferris Wheel – Lacks any real views but was built just to break a Guinness World Record as the world’s largest indoor Ferris wheel.

Turkmenistan is obsessed with Guinness World Records and holds several, including:

• Largest building shaped like a bird – The Ashgabat airport.

• Highest density of white marble buildings – The city's signature aesthetic.

Symbolism in Ashgabat’s Architecture

Public buildings in Ashgabat are designed with literal, over-the-top symbolism:

• Ministry of Finance – Topped with a giant coin.

• Ministry of Education – Shaped like a book.

• Ministry of Foreign Affairs – Features a large globe on its roof.

• Olympic Stadium – Has a white marble horse head poking out of the structure.

Is Ashgabat Really Empty?

Many Instagram reels and YouTube videos showcase Ashgabat as an eerily deserted city, but in reality, it is as lively as any other Central Asian capital. However, tourist areas are often empty because:

1. The heat is unbearable – There’s little shade, and walking around is impractical.

2. Locals have no reason to be there – The city’s grandiose monuments are primarily for show.

On a side note, the government actively encourages population growth—families with eight children receive a free five-room apartment!

Night Train to Yangikala Canyon

After finishing our city tour, we stopped at a bathhouse for a shower and then visited a store to stock up on snacks for our overnight train to Yangikala Canyon.

The train station store was an experience in itself, with shelves that were partially empty but neatly arranged. The shop assistants wore old-school uniforms, adding to the surreal atmosphere.

Once on board, we settled into our sleeper coupe—a simple compartment with four bunk beds and blankets. Although we had hoped for a private coupe, we had to share it with our guide. However, we were lucky to have one unoccupied bed—which quickly became a hot commodity. Throughout the night, strangers repeatedly tried to claim it, even though our coupe's door lock was broken.

For safety reasons, our guide strongly advised us to firmly decline anyone attempting to take the bed. Keeping the coupe private ensured we would arrive in Yangikala with all our belongings intact.

Day 3: Yangikala canyon - A Hidden Gem in the Desert

Arrival in Turkmenbashi

Early in the morning, we arrived perfectly on schedule in Turkmenbashi, an industrial town on the Caspian Sea.

One of Turkmenistan’s more puzzling rules: swimming in the Caspian Sea is prohibited due to COVID. What does swimming have to do with COVID? No one knows. That said, the water near the industrial zone looked far from inviting, so we didn’t feel like we were missing out.

After breakfast at a local restaurant, we met with our driver and began our long journey to Yangikala Canyon.

Getting to the Canyon – A Long and Bumpy Ride

• 14-hour overnight train ride? Check.

• Followed by several hours in a 4x4? Also check.

At the time of booking, we didn’t realize that a flight from Ashgabat to Turkmenbashi was an option—which would have saved us a lot of time. If you’re planning this trip, book a flight early through a licensed travel agency (since you cannot book it yourself). Unless, of course, you want the full Turkmen train experience!

On the way, we stopped for a coffee break at a small desert store, which was manned entirely by children—a surprising sight in the middle of nowhere.

Yangikala Canyon – A Spectacular Sight, Despite the Rain

Upon reaching the canyon, we faced an unexpected challenge—rain.

Since rainfall in the desert is rare but highly welcomed by local farmers, none of us had packed rain gear. Unfortunately, this meant that hiking was off the table, but even while getting drenched, the breathtaking landscape made it all worthwhile.

• The vivid colors and rock formations were absolutely mesmerizing.

• The remoteness added to the magic—unlike the Grand Canyon, we had this place entirely to ourselves.

After capturing enough photos and videos, we hurried back to the car, where our driver treated us to a local sweet snack "to warm up" before bracing ourselves for another long drive back to Ashgabat.

Back to Ashgabat – The City of Lights

Thedrive back was long, but the desert scenery was peaceful and majestic, with empty roads and mountain silhouettes on the horizon.

Back in Ashgabat, we checked into a 3-star hotel, which also housed a “Happiness Palace”—what marriage registration offices are called in Turkmenistan. The hotel itself had a futuristic/brutalist design and changed colors every few minutes—red, blue, green, and more.

Being located on top of a hill, the hotel offered stunning views of Ashgabat. At night, the entire city was brightly illuminated, with colorful, glowing buildings dotting the landscape. Electricity in Turkmenistan is free, so the city certainly doesn’t hold back on lighting!

Day 4: Mary / Merv - A Step Back in Time

Morning Departure to Mary

After breakfast at the hotel in Ashgabat, we set off towards Mary, a city that offers a stark contrast to the capital's glitzy modernity.

Our main destination was Merv, an ancient oasis city with a rich history that dates back to the Silk Road era. The city is renowned for its impressive archaeological remains whichhas earned it recognition as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, emphasizing its importance as a major city along the ancient Silk Road.

Exploring the City of Mary

Unlike Ashgabat, the city of Mary feels like a more traditional Central Asian city. It has no grand monuments or white marble buildings but instead showcases a more authentic, local atmosphere. Here, you’ll find a variety of cars in all colors, offering a stark contrast to the sleek vehicles of Ashgabat.

We took some time to explore the city, visiting mosques, churches and a  bustling market offering a chance to see daily life in a way that Ashgabat's polished streets don’t.

Dinner at a Western-style Restaurant

After a day of sightseeing, we were ready for dinner. Our guide took us to a surprisingly Western-style outdoor restaurant, offering a much-needed change from the local dining scene. The meal was the most expensive we had in Turkmenistan, costing around 10 USD per person—a luxury compared to the typical, more affordable meals we had experienced so far.