Iceland’s volcanoes, waterfalls, and glaciers are undoubtedly famous worldwide, drawing in tourists from every corner of the globe. However, many travelers stick to the popular Ring Road and miss out on Iceland’s best-kept secret—the remote, breathtaking landscapes of the Icelandic Highlands.
These highlands offer dramatic scenery and far fewer tourists, making them an absolute dream for anyone with a sense of adventure. All you need is a 4WD, a tent (or a pre-booked cabin if you’re a planner), and a deep appreciation for the beauty of the great outdoors. After spending over a week exploring this stunning country, I can confidently say that the highlands were the most impressive part of the trip!
🌄 Essential Tips Before You Go
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4WD is a Must: The roads to the highlands are unpaved and often require crossing rivers, so a 4WD vehicle is absolutely essential. Regular rental cars can’t tackle these routes, and even if they could, you definitely don’t want to risk getting stuck in the wilderness!
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F-Roads Ahead: Most routes leading into the highlands are F-roads—gravel, unpaved tracks. Expect bumpy, slow rides, but trust me, the journey is well worth it, especially when you reach those jaw-dropping landscapes.
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Accommodation: You’ll find several campsites in the highlands offering both camping and hut accommodations. Be sure to check reservation policies for each spot, as some campsites require advance bookings, while others don’t. Also, keep in mind that showers are typically not included, so expect to pay extra for them. If you prefer a hut over camping, be aware that hut spaces often book up months in advance—so plan ahead, especially if you're traveling during peak season.
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Useful Links:
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Payments: Iceland is a cashless paradise—credit cards are accepted almost everywhere, even in paid toilets! We didn’t need to withdraw cash once (honestly, I couldn’t even tell you what Icelandic banknotes look like!). However, it’s worth noting that payments in the mountain huts depend on internet connectivity, which can be spotty in the highlands. It’s a good idea to carry some cash just in case.
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Getting There: To reach Kerlingarfjöll and Hveradalir, you’ll typically use Route 35 (Kjalvegur). Bonus: In the summer, this route offers stunning views of fields of lupine flowers—so beautiful, you’ll want to stop and take it all in!
🏔️ Day 1: Kerlingarfjöll and Hveradalir
If I could spend only one day in Iceland, this would be it. Hveradalir, a geothermal paradise nestled in the Kerlingarfjöll mountain range, feels like stepping into another world. It’s easily accessible via Kjalvegur/Route 35, with parking conveniently located near the geothermal area. As you make your way, be sure to stop at the horseshoe lookout along the route—a quick pit stop, but trust me, it’s well worth it! (GPS coordinates: 64.671845, -19.282947).
🔥 Exploring Hveradalir
Hveradalir is a true geothermal wonderland, where steaming vents and bubbling hot springs sit against the stunning backdrop of colorful rhyolite mountains. Whether you're looking for a leisurely stroll or an all-day hike, this area offers plenty to explore.
Option 1: Explore the Geothermal Area
Take your time to wander the short trails around the geothermal sites. You’ll want to dedicate 1–2 hours here, and be sure your phone is charged—you’ll want to snap a ton of pictures! Some areas do have that distinct sulfur smell, but it’s a small price to pay for the surreal beauty of bubbling mud pools and steaming vents. It’s a photographer’s dream!
Option 2: Hiking
For those who want a more immersive experience, hiking in the Kerlingarfjöll range offers breathtaking views of Iceland’s vast, wild landscape. Even during high season, the trails are wonderfully quiet, giving you the chance to connect deeply with nature. If solitude is what you crave, this hike is perfect for you.
- Longer hike: Kerlingarfjöll Hike
This route is great if you want to venture deep into the wilderness. Though the itinerary estimates four hours, we took six with all our photo stops! Therefore, budget enough time so you properly soak in all the views. If you're visiting Iceland in July, good news is that the sun almost never sets so you don't risk getting stranded in the dark. The trail is not easy—steep slopes and snow-filled valleys make trekking poles useful. But if you're an experienced hiker, the stunning views are worth every step. - Shorter hike: Kerlingarfjöll Short Hike
If you’re pressed for time or prefer a more relaxed hike, this route covers all the major geothermal viewpoints without venturing too deep into the wild.
🏠 Accommodation
We stayed at Langalid Guesthouse , which was a perfect base given its proximity to Landmannalaugar, our destination for the next day.
🏔️ Day 2: Landmannalaugar
Tucked away in Iceland’s southern highlands, Landmannalaugar feels like stepping into a completely different world. Known for its kaleidoscopic rhyolite mountains, bubbling hot springs, and rugged lava fields, this remote gem is a dream destination for nature lovers, hikers, and photographers alike.
While the area is best experienced through hiking, you can also relax in natural hot springs, surrounded by some of the most stunning vistas in Iceland.
🚗 Getting There
The drive to Landmannalaugar is part of the adventure, but be prepared—it’s not an easy journey. To navigate the rough F-roads, you'll need a 4WD vehicle. Though the road can be bumpy, the pristine, untouched environment you'll find upon arrival is more than worth it. Depending on where you're coming from, here are your main routes:
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F26 and F208 from the north
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F225 from the west
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F208 from the south
If you’re coming from the north and don’t mind an extra hour's detour, don’t miss Haifoss waterfall. Its name means “High Waterfall,” and the dramatic drop of 122 meters into the canyon is as powerful as it is stunning. A short walk from the parking lot brings you to this spectacular view, with the nearby Granni waterfall adding a bonus sight to your journey.
🥾 Hiking in Landmannalaugar
Landmannalaugar is the starting point for the famous Laugavegur Trail, one of the world’s top multi-day hikes. But if you’re only in for a day or so, there are plenty of options to explore by foot.
Option 1: Bláhnúkur-Brennisteinsalda Loop
This half-day hike takes you through the striking Bláhnúkur (Blue Peak) and the Brennisteinsalda volcano. The landscape here speaks for itself—the rich colors of the rhyolite mountains, the steam rising from geothermal vents, and the sweeping views are absolutely unforgettable. The trail is a bit less technical than the one in Hveradalir, but still involves crossing streams and some light scrambling.
Pro tip: Bring extra socks—you might end up with wet feet! And just like in Hveradalir, it’s best to allow for more time than the hiking apps suggest, as you’ll want to take plenty of stops to admire the scenery and snap photos.
Bláhnúkur-Brennisteinsalda Loop
Option 2: Landmannalaugar Loop from Kirkjubæjarklaustur
If you’re looking for something shorter and easier, the Landmannalaugar Loop from Kirkjubæjarklaustur is a great option. This hike is gentler on the legs but still offers incredible views of lava fields—something you won’t find on the Bláhnúkur-Brennisteinsalda Loop. It’s perfect if you want to enjoy the beauty of the area without overexerting yourself.
Landmannalaugar Loop from Kirkjubæjarklaustur
🏕️ Accommodation
For accommodation, we stayed at the Landmannalaugar Campsite. No need for a reservation for a tent spot, though it can get quite crowded during the high season. Despite the bustle, the atmosphere was cozy and welcoming. We made the most of the BBQ areas, found some comfy spots on the benches, and had fun checking out the "mountain malls" (small shops tucked inside refurbished American school buses). It’s the perfect base for unwinding after a day of hiking or soaking in the surroundings.
🏞️ Day 3: Exploring Landmannalaugar
With no driving on the agenda for the morning, you can either opt for a longer, full-day hike or start making your way toward your next Icelandic destination.
🥾 Option 1: Grænihryggur Hike
For those eager to get the blood pumping, the Grænihryggur Hike is a must. This out-and-back trail takes you along the vibrant green rhyolite ridge of Grænihryggur, offering sweeping views of the surrounding mountains. Like most hikes in the Landmannalaugar area, this one requires a bit of technical skill and an understanding of Iceland’s ever-changing weather. Word of caution: it’s not the best spot for beginners, so be sure you're comfortable with mountain terrain.
Remember, time management is key—allow yourself plenty of time to savor Iceland’s raw beauty, because you’ll want to stop frequently for photos (and for a breath of the fresh, crisp mountain air)!
🚙 Option 2: Head to the Ring Road
If you’re ready to move on and tackle new Icelandic adventures, it’s time to head toward the Ring Road. But don’t take the drive lightly! The journey involves multiple river crossings and rough terrain, which means you’ll need a reliable 4WD and an experienced driver to navigate the challenges.
On our 3-hour drive, we witnessed a bus stuck in a river crossing and a car that had lost its license plate somewhere in the water. It’s a reminder to take your time and approach the drive with caution. But even the road itself is a part of the adventure—embrace the journey and enjoy the incredible landscapes unfolding around you!
Örugg ferðalög! Safe travels!
Iceland’s highlands may be remote and rugged, but they’re worth every bit of effort. So drive carefully, be prepared, and let yourself fully soak in the moment as you explore this breathtaking corner of the world. The memories you make here will stay with you forever. 🌍✨
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