Day 1: Tashkent
Chances are you'll land in Tashkent as your entry point to Uzbekistan. I recommend spending no more than one day here, as compared to other cities in Uzbekistan, the capital is less impressive. Much of its historical architecture was destroyed by an earthquake in 1966, leading to significant redevelopment during the Soviet era. As a result, Tashkent now features a mix of Soviet-era and modern buildings, lacking the old-world charm found in cities like Samarkand or Bukhara.
Nevertheless, since you’ll likely enter or leave from Tashkent, you should visit the main sights, such as the Hazrati Imam Complex, Chorsu Bazaar, Minor Mosque, and Amir Timur Square. Remember to bring head coverage for visiting mosques, a requirement throughout your Uzbekistan itinerary.
I highly recommend checking out the Tashkent metro system. It's one of the most impressive and ornate metros you’ll ever see. Notable stations include Pakhtakor, Kosmonavtlar, Mustaqilliq Maidoni, Gafur Gulom, and Alisher Navoi. Tickets are very affordable, costing around 0.10 EUR (0.11 USD).
Day 2: Khiva
The best and easiest way to travel from Tashkent to Khiva is by flying. Flights depart several times a day, last about 1.5 hours, and cost less than $100. Please note that you will need to fly to Urgench Airport. From there, it’s less than an hour’s drive to Khiva.
An alternative option is to take an overnight train, which takes around 14 hours. If you choose the train for environmental reasons or for the experience, I highly recommend upgrading to first or at least second class. This will ensure you arrive in Khiva feeling more rested, as the lower classes can be quite crowded and offer only basic amenities.
In stark contrast to Tashkent, Khiva is one of the most architecturally beautiful and cozy cities we visited. Known for its well-preserved old town, Itchan Kala, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Khiva has a rich history dating back over a thousand years. It was a prominent trading post on the Silk Road and later fell under Russian control before being incorporated into the Soviet Union.
The main sights in Khiva are all within the walled old town of Itchan Kala. It is so well preserved that it feels like a living museum. You can observe traditional uzbek bread cooking process , where dough is stuck on the sides of a clay oven called tandoor or witness or tight rope walking performance.
Notable architectural landmarks include:
- Kalta Minor Minaret: Magnificent minaret which has now become the symbol of the city. It is especially gorgeous in the evening when the city has been lit up and it feels like you have stepped back in time to the Arabian nights.
- Kuhna Ark: The old fortress and residence of the Khiva Khans.
- Juma Mosque: Mosque most notable for its unique interior design with 213 wooden columns
- Tosh-Hovli Palace: Another famous residence of the Khiva Khans
- Islam-Khoja Minaret and Madrasah: An educational institution in the Islamic world.
Despite seeming like a lot to cover in one day, Khiva's old town is small, and distances are manageable—unless you wish to take long breaks from the sharp midday sun.
Given the city’s rich history, I recommend a guided tour. We used GuruWalk, which operates on a pay-what-you-like principle.
Day 3: Elliq-Qalla forts
The next day can be spent visiting the Elliq-Qalla forts, a 1.5-hour drive from Khiva. Renting a car with a driver costs about 50 USD.
While Elliq-Qala stands for "Fifty Forts," you will be visiting "only" 3 of them: Toprak Qala, Ayaz Qala and
Janbas Qala. Each of the forts are different and impressive in their own way, some have well preserved layout, some are perched on a top of hill , some have impressive clay walls. Explore these forts on foot and marvel at the ingenuity of these defensive structures situated in a barren desert landscape.
The entire tour lasts about 5 to 6 hours, giving you the opportunity to explore any sights you might have missed on the first day in Khiva during the afternoon, or simply to relax and enjoy the beautiful atmosphere of the old town once more.
Day 4: Getting to Bukhara
Cheapest way to get from Khiva to Bukhara is by train, however the journey takes 7 hours and the train departs only one a day ( at 11.00 am), therefore majority of the day will be spent in transit. Non budget conscious travellers can arrange a shared taxi, however time savings are not that substantial (5-6 hours instead of 7).
Alternative route: if you want to visit two countries in one go, you can do a detour from Khiva to Turkmenistan and enter Uzbekistan again close to Bukhara border. An example itinerary is outlined : link
Just be aware that that you need a LOI (Letter of Invitation) from local tourism agencies to enter Turkmenistan so this cannot be done spontaneously.
Day 5: Bukhara
Upon entering Bukhara's old town, you'll see that the long train journey was worth it. Like Khiva, Bukhara was a key hub of culture, trade, and scholarship along the Silk Road. Despite modernization during the Soviet period, many historical structures remain well-preserved.
Must-visit sites include:
- Po-i-Kalyan Complex: Features the Kalyan Minaret, also known as the "Tower of Death" for its historical use as an execution site, as well as the Kalyan Mosque and Mir-i-Arab Madrasah. Pro tip: This complex is exceptionally photogenic at night!
- Ark Fortress: An ancient citadel and museum.
- Bolo Haouz Mosque: Known for its elegant wooden pillars supporting the porch.
- Chor Minor: A small yet charming mosque with four distinctive towers topped with blue domes. For a small fee, you can climb to the top of the dome.
- Ismail Samani Mausoleum: A small but architecturally impressive mausoleum renowned for its intricate brickwork.
Day 6: Bukhara cont.
If you have an extra day in Bukhara, consider visiting the following:
- Lyab-i Hauz Ensemble: A social and cultural hub in Bukhara, including several madrasahs (universities) and a sugi lodge.
- Trading Domes (Taqi): Covered bazaars with three domes housing active markets.
- Emir's Summer Palace: A palace from the 19th-20th centuries with eclectic architecture reflecting both local and European influences.
Day 7: Samarkand
Traveling from Bukhara to Samarkand by train is easy and convenient, taking only 2-3 hours, depending on the train. However, book your tickets well in advance, as domestic tickets often sell out quickly, especially during peak seasons of spring / autumn.
After visiting Khiva and Bukhara, you might think nothing else could impress you, but we saved the best for last. Samarkand, like the previous two cities, was a significant center along the Silk Road and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. What sets Samarkand apart is its sheer grandeur. The city's historical buildings are majestic and awe-inspiring.
Main sights include:
- Registan Square: The heart of Samarkand, flanked by three magnificent madrasahs: Ulugh Beg Madrasah (15th century), Sher-Dor Madrasah (17th century), and Tilya-Kori Madrasah (17th century). Allow sufficient time to visit all three as they are truly magnificent, though expect a tourist-heavy experience at Registan Square.
- Gur-e-Amir Mausoleum: The final resting place of Timur, the founder of the Timurid Empire. This mausoleum is an architectural masterpiece. Visit in the evening when the crowds thin out and the site is beautifully lit.
- Bibi-Khanym Mosque: Once one of the largest mosques in the Islamic world, it is not fully reconstructed but remains impressive.
- Siab Bazaar: A bustling market near Bibi-Khanym Mosque, offering a vibrant atmosphere with traditional foods, spices, and textiles. Be prepared for a more interactive shopping experience.
Day 8: Samarkand cont.
With many sights to explore in Samarkand, it’s nearly impossible to see everything in one day. Consider the below visits on the 2nd day:
- Shah-i-Zinda Necropolis: A complex of mausoleums and tombs adorned with intricate mosaics and patterns.
- Hazrati Hizr Mosque: Located on a hill overlooking the ancient city, this mosque offers panoramic views of the surrounding area. It is still an active prayer site and is stunning after dark.
Museum enthusiasts should also include:
- Ulugh Beg Observatory: Built in the 15th century, this observatory was one of the most advanced of its time. While most of the observatory has been converted into a museum, remnants of the large sextant used to measure celestial movements can still be seen. Note that it can be crowded during peak hours.
- Afrosiab Museum and Archaeological Site: Displays artifacts from Samarkand’s pre-Islamic and early Islamic periods, including murals, pottery, and coins.
Day 9: Shahrisabz
A popular day trip from Samarkand is to Shahrisabz, the birthplace of Amir Timur, the founder of the Timurid Empire. Timur invested significantly in the city’s development, and some historical monuments are still preserved. The city's well worth a visit if you haven't yet had enough of Timurid history and architecture, however you should not expect the grandeur and magnificence similar to that of Samarkand.
Since the monuments and palaces are less well preserved than in other cities, it is worth investing in a guide to explain the historical significance of the sites you would be seeing.
Places to visit in Shahrisabz include:
- Ak-Saray Palace: Timur’s summer residence, now mostly in ruins. However, the surviving parts, including the grand entrance portal, showcase its former magnificence.
- Dorut Tilovat Complex: Includes the Kok Gumbaz Mosque and Gumbazi-Seyidan Mausoleum, where Timur’s family members are buried.
- Dor-us Siyadat Complex: Also known as the House of Power, intended to be Timur’s family mausoleum.
- Amir Timur Statue: A prominent statue of Amir Timur stands in the central square of Shahrisabz, symbolizing the city’s pride in its most famous son.
There are no trains or public transport from Samarkand to Shahrisabz, so you’ll need to book a day tour or hire a taxi/driver. On the upside, the drive to Shahrisabz is picturesque and winding through mountainous landscapes and will normally include a few scenic stops.
Day 10: Flying back from Samarkand or Tashkent
Samarkand has an international airport, so you can arrange your return flight from there. Alternatively, you can travel back to Tashkent via:
- Train from Samarkand to Tashkent: Quick and easy, taking around 2 hours with a fast train. Ensure you book in advance to avoid slower trains.
- Shared Taxi from Ulugbek Bus Station: A budget option costing about 100,000 sum (around 8 USD) per person. However, you’ll need to wait until the car is full. Note that shared taxis are not marked and are operated by private individuals.
- Private Transfer: Although expensive, this is the most convenient option. Reputable companies may charge hundreds of dollars, but if you have a sense of adventure, you can pay for all the seats of a shared taxi and have the car to yourself.
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