Ultimate Uzbekistan: 13 Day Itinerary

Day 2: Journey to Nukus

If you're seeking off-the-beaten-path experiences, Nukus offers a more authentic and less commercialized visit. It's the gateway to the Aral Sea, a site of ecological disaster and a stark reminder of environmental change. The sea’s decline has created a dramatic landscape of rusting ships and desolate shorelines.

To reach Nukus, board an overnight train from Tashkent Station at 2 p.m. Arrive early, as the station has a separate waiting area for foreign guests, complete with free coffee/tea, Wi-Fi, charging stations, and a very eager attendant.

We booked a 2-person, 1st-class carriage, which was quite comfortable with amenities like blankets and pillows provided. The train had a western toilet, but it was only accessible when the train was moving and locked during stops.

Book your train to Nukus

Day 3: Nukus

You’ll arrive in Nukus around 7 a.m., where a driver we had arranged in advance awaited us at the station. The car and driver for about 5-6 hours cost us 60 USD.

We began our day by visiting the Mizdakhan Architectural Complex, an ancient burial ground and necropolis believed to have been an important center for Zoroastrianism before Islam. The complex is vast, covering over 200 hectares, and features mausoleums, mosques, and tombs from various historical periods. Visiting in the morning added an eerie atmosphere, as it was almost deserted with only a few groundkeepers present.

Next, we drove to the Moynaq Ship Cemetery, a stark reminder of environmental devastation in Central Asia. Once a thriving port on the shores of the Aral Sea, the sea’s dramatic decline due to Soviet-era irrigation projects has left the former port town miles away from the water. Visitors can now walk among rusted, decaying ships resting on the desert, symbolizing the region's environmental catastrophe.

Day 4: Khiva

Traveling from Nukus to Khiva is not straightforward, as Nukus is not well connected to the rest of the country. The best option is to arrange a driver from Nukus (we used the same driver from the previous day) for 50 USD per car.

In stark contrast to Tashkent and Nukus, Khiva is one of the most architecturally beautiful and cozy cities we visited. Known for its well-preserved old town, Itchan Kala, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Khiva has a rich history dating back over a thousand years. It was a prominent trading post on the Silk Road and later fell under Russian control before being incorporated into the Soviet Union.

The main sights in Khiva are all within the walled old town of Itchan Kala. It is so well preserved that it feels like a living museum.  You can observe traditional uzbek bread cooking process , where dough is stuck on the sides of a clay oven called tandoor or witness or tight rope walking performance.

Notable architectural landmarks include:

• Kalta Minor Minaret: Magnificent minaret which has now become the symbol of the city. It is especially gorgeous in the evening when the city has been lit up and it feels like you have stepped back in time to the Arabian nights.
• Kuhna Ark: The old fortress and residence of the Khiva Khans.
• Juma Mosque: Mosque most notable for its unique interior design with 213 wooden columns
• Tosh-Hovli Palace: Another famous residence of the Khiva Khans
• Islam-Khoja Minaret and Madrasah: An educational institution in the Islamic world.

Despite seeming like a lot to cover in one day, Khiva's old town is small, and distances are manageable—unless you wish to take long breaks from the sharp midday sun.

Given the city’s rich history, I recommend a guided tour. We used GuruWalk, which operates on a pay-what-you-like principle.

Day 5: Elliq-Qalla forts

The next day can be spent visiting the Elliq-Qalla forts, a 1.5-hour drive from Khiva. Renting a car with a driver costs about 50 USD.

While Elliq-Qala stands for  "Fifty Forts," you will be visiting "only" 3 of them: Toprak Qala, Ayaz Qala and

Janbas Qala. Each of the forts are different and impressive in their own way, some have well preserved layout, some are perched on a top of hill , some have impressive clay walls. Explore these forts on foot and marvel at the ingenuity of these defensive structures situated in a barren desert landscape.

Day 6: getting to Bukhara

Cheapest way to get from Khiva to Bukhara is by train, however the journey takes 7 hours and the train departs only one a day ( at 11.00 am), therefore majority of the day will be spent in transit. Non budget conscious travellers can arrange a shared taxi, however time savings are not that substantial (5-6 hours instead of 7).

Alternative route: if you want to visit two countries in one go, you can do a detour from Khiva to Turkmenistan and enter Uzbekistan again close to Bukhara border. An example itinerary is outlined : link

Just be aware that that you need a LOI (Letter of Invitation) from local tourism agencies to enter Turkmenistan so this cannot be done spontaneously.

Day 7: Bukhara

Upon entering Bukhara's old town, you'll see that the long train journey was worth it. Like Khiva, Bukhara was a key hub of culture, trade, and scholarship along the Silk Road. Despite modernization during the Soviet period, many historical structures remain well-preserved.

Must-visit sites include:

• Po-i-Kalyan Complex: Features the Kalyan Minaret, also known as the "Tower of Death" for its historical use as an execution site, as well as the Kalyan Mosque and Mir-i-Arab Madrasah. Pro tip: This complex is exceptionally photogenic at night!
• Ark Fortress: An ancient citadel and museum.
• Bolo Haouz Mosque: Known for its elegant wooden pillars supporting the porch.
• Chor Minor: A small yet charming mosque with four distinctive towers topped with blue domes. For a small fee, you can climb to the top of the dome.
• Ismail Samani Mausoleum: A small but architecturally impressive mausoleum renowned for its intricate brickwork.

Day 8: Bukhara cont.

If you have an extra day in Bukhara, consider visiting the following:

• Lyab-i Hauz Ensemble: A social and cultural hub in Bukhara, including several madrasahs (universities) and a sugi lodge.
• Trading Domes (Taqi): Covered bazaars with three domes housing active markets.
• Emir's Summer Palace: A palace from the 19th-20th centuries with eclectic architecture reflecting both local and European influences.

Day 9: Samarkand

Traveling from Bukhara to Samarkand by train is easy and convenient, taking only 2-3 hours, depending on the train. However, book your tickets well in advance, as domestic tickets often sell out quickly, especially during peak seasons of spring / autumn.

After visiting Khiva and Bukhara, you might think nothing else could impress you, but we saved the best for last. Samarkand, like the previous two cities, was a significant center along the Silk Road and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. What sets Samarkand apart is its sheer grandeur. The city's historical buildings are majestic and awe-inspiring.

Main sights include:

• Registan Square: The heart of Samarkand, flanked by three magnificent madrasahs: Ulugh Beg Madrasah (15th century), Sher-Dor Madrasah (17th century), and Tilya-Kori Madrasah (17th century). Allow sufficient time to visit all three as they are truly magnificent, though expect a tourist-heavy experience at Registan Square.
• Gur-e-Amir Mausoleum: The final resting place of Timur, the founder of the Timurid Empire. This mausoleum is an architectural masterpiece. Visit in the evening when the crowds thin out and the site is beautifully lit.
• Bibi-Khanym Mosque: Once one of the largest mosques in the Islamic world, it is not fully reconstructed but remains impressive.
• Siab Bazaar: A bustling market near Bibi-Khanym Mosque, offering a vibrant atmosphere with traditional foods, spices, and textiles. Be prepared for a more interactive shopping experience.

Day 10: Samarkand cont.

With many sights to explore in Samarkand, it’s nearly impossible to see everything in one day. Consider the below visits on the 2nd day:

• Shah-i-Zinda Necropolis: A complex of mausoleums and tombs adorned with intricate mosaics and patterns.
• Hazrati Hizr Mosque: Located on a hill overlooking the ancient city, this mosque offers panoramic views of the surrounding area. It is still an active prayer site and is stunning after dark.

Museum enthusiasts should also include:

• Ulugh Beg Observatory: Built in the 15th century, this observatory was one of the most advanced of its time. While most of the observatory has been converted into a museum, remnants of the large sextant used to measure celestial movements can still be seen. Note that it can be crowded during peak hours.
• Afrosiab Museum and Archaeological Site: Displays artifacts from Samarkand’s pre-Islamic and early Islamic periods, including murals, pottery, and coins.

Day 11: Shahrisabz

A popular day trip from Samarkand is to Shahrisabz, the birthplace of Amir Timur, the founder of the Timurid Empire. Timur invested significantly in the city’s development, and some historical monuments are still preserved. The city's well worth a visit if you haven't yet had enough of Timurid history and architecture, however you should not expect the grandeur and magnificence similar to that of Samarkand.

Since the monuments and palaces are less well preserved than in other cities, it is worth investing in a guide to explain the historical significance of the sites you would be seeing.

Places to visit in Shahrisabz include:

• Ak-Saray Palace: Timur’s summer residence, now mostly in ruins. However, the surviving parts, including the grand entrance portal, showcase its former magnificence.
• Dorut Tilovat Complex: Includes the Kok Gumbaz Mosque and Gumbazi-Seyidan Mausoleum, where Timur’s family members are buried.
• Dor-us Siyadat Complex: Also known as the House of Power, intended to be Timur’s family mausoleum.
• Amir Timur Statue: A prominent statue of Amir Timur stands in the central square of Shahrisabz, symbolizing the city’s pride in its most famous son.

There are no trains or public transport from Samarkand to Shahrisabz, so you’ll need to book a day tour or hire a taxi/driver. On the upside, the drive to Shahrisabz is picturesque and winding through mountainous landscapes and will normally include a few scenic stops.

Day 12: Cave of Hazrati Dovud

In case you are craving some nature after several days of city sightseeing, I have just the place for you.

 While the term "cave" might not conjure images of breathtaking views, you’re in for a pleasant surprise.

The Cave of Hazrati Dovud, believed to be the hiding place of the Biblical prophet David (Hazrati Dovud), sits atop a mountain. Although the climb is steep the views are well worth the effort!

It is significant in Islamic tradition and serves as a place of pilgrimage for many. Therefore, be prepared not to expect a serene alone in the nature experience - the stairs leading to the cave are CROWDED, so visiting on a weekday rather than a weekend might be a good idea.

While the entrance and the cave itself can be packed with people, it is easy to find more secluded spots on the mountaintop to enjoy the peaceful surroundings. This magical (and in local beliefs, mystical) place serves as a beautiful reminder that Uzbekistan is not only a country of stunning mosques and madrsas, but also boasts beautiful rolling hills and majestic mountains.